Tuesday 17th September 2019
The sea had been calm overnight and all was well as we arrived at the Crete port of Chania. We had arranged to disembark at 07.30 so it was almost daylight by then as we waited on the quayside for our taxi-driver. He arrived by sunrise although the quayside dog was still resting. I noticed his eyes were alert for possible food though.
My friend had arranged for us to be collected from the ship by a local man who drove us further west to Kissamos Bay, to check in at the Gramvoussa Bay Hotel. I had a small apartment which seemed wonderful for a family, but my eye soon saw a hairdryer in the bathroom - oh what bliss for the next couple of days. We were booked on a day's cruise leaving the local port at 10.30, only a short walk away, but first we had time for a relaxed breakfast in the hotel restaurant, with a variety of tempting dishes.
We soon walked to the port admiring the wonderful location of this hotel with its own bay and safe water for swimming.
Ahead of us we could see the local Cretan Daily Cruises fleet and what became a crowd of hundreds of people queuing for their tickets. We soon had ours and boarded SPIRIT OF ATHOS. This became our comfortable home for the day as we found comfortable mid-ship bench seats under cover.
Departure time came and went, as more and more passengers arrived at the quayside ticket office, and more and more of them were directed to the various ships. We could see the large GRAMVOUSA filling up with hundreds of people, with more and more waiting to board. Our smaller ship was full but seemed comfortably so to us, although some had to sit on stairs between decks, by choice I think.
We finally sailed about an hour late but the sea was calm and blue under an azure sky, with a barely noticeable breeze. It was a wonderful sail along parallel with the rocky and arid coast on our port side, heading north. This was where a tectonic plate had slipped, we were told. To our north/north-east I could just see land faintly on the horizon, and realised that it was probably the island of Antikythera, many miles away, and our destination tomorrow.
We rounded the headland on the SPIRIT OF ATHOS and sailed into Balos Bay, our main destination for the day. The mountains were almost all around us, and the ship tied up at a walkway to the shore. It was a glorious sight, with clear sea around us, changing colour slightly as we watched the shallow depths beneath us. Far round the bay was an almost dried up lagoon, a vast sandy beach curving round part of the bay from where we anchored, and low rocks or sand giving access to the sparkling water for swimming or simply doing nothing.
There were no signs of habitation but our ship was available all the time we were in the bay, whether we wanted food or drinks from the bar or just to relax under the shaded deck. We had hired a huge canvas umbrella which proved its worth on the beach until hunger drove us back to the ship. I could see freshly cooked sausages and pies were available at the bar, and pizza was freshly cooked as we waited. We could have cold juices, beer or hot drinks as we wished. There were ice creams, fresh fruit and pastries and I think most appetites were satisfied.
We sat and talked with a couple from Alesund in Norway as we had our food.
Later the ship sailed from the bay and went round to another one, and put the anchor down this time towards one end of an ancient rusty shipwreck. Then it was everyone off the ship, some energetic people to climb the mountainside to castle remains at the top, whilst the rest of us enjoyed the water, beach and shade under the trees.
The ship's whistle reminded us all to get back on board after our two hour break here, and then we could all enjoy the oh so slow progress of the SPIRIT OF ATHOS along the length of the anchor chain, parallel with the shipwreck, as the heavy anchor finally came up. We could hear and feel the engine as this happened. We had seen the sheer of our ship from the beach and it was an unusual sight these days I thought. She was built in 1970 - different times and designs back then.
We had a gentle sail home again, back to Kissamos harbour, after an absolutely wonderful day out.
We had a final Cretan meal (fried cheese, Cretan salad which included rusks, meatballs and chips, plus bread and wine, since you ask) at the local tavern at the port, and then walked home ready to pack and prepare for our next adventure tomorrow.
Ships seen: MSC Lirica, Norwegian Jade, Blue Galaxy
Gramvousa, Spirit of Athos built in 1970 at 551 gross tons, Skylark, Gramvousa Express, Balos, and the shipwreck
To be continued...