Haynes World - ships, ferries, a laugh on the ocean wave, and other interesting things...


Greece 2012 Part 12, the final one

Saturday 8th September 2012
Here we are on Blue Star PATMOS arriving in Piraeus again, well before the crack of dawn.

Disembarking from Blue Star PATMOS

Goodbye to us, and welcome to the next passengers

It was 6.20 a.m. as everybody disembarked in the darkness, but we walked along the quayside, passing FESTOS PALACE and the luggage lorry off-loading beside it, back to the shipping line offices. I looked after the bags whilst my companion went to buy the tickets for this morning’s sailing on Blue Star NAXOS to Mykonos. The usual port dogs were wandering around, and I noticed a couple of them climb into a stationary local bus for a while, before getting off and doing other things.

Luggage arriving for Minoan Lines' Festos Palace

Embarking on Blue Star Naxos

The sun gradually came up over the surrounding mountains and we hurried on board with hundreds of other passengers. We are to depart at 7.35 a.m. from Piraeus to Mykonos new ferry port, calling at Syros and Tinos en route, and arriving at 12.35 p.m. so there will be good time for lunch before our next sailing this afternoon.

Serenade of the Seas stern

Festos Palace

Masts in the morning mist

Jet ferry 1

Leaving the great harbour of Piraeus we could see many ships in their berths, or just arriving, including masted sailing ships. Because it was Saturday the NAXOS was extremely crowded and we were glad to have tickets for the forward First Class Saloon to enjoy the more spacious and less crowded surroundings. The sea was somewhat rough this morning, with quite a breeze, but the sky and sea was blue and it was becoming very hot again. We watched other ships departing on their various routes to the islands, including the SPEEDRUNNER 4.

Very cheap fuel

It's heading our way!

The black smoke being emitted from her was phenomenal and, although we knew she must be using really cheap fuel, it did look as if she might be on fire at first sight. That smoke even drifted over to us for a short while. Cappuccino and a cheese pie removed the taste of the smoke from my nose and memory.

On deck

Deck Plan Blue Star Naxos

Adamantios Korais

Artemis in the spray and swell

Our passage to Syros was quite rough compared with our usual calm waters, but it was possible to rest comfortably in our Saloon, and we felt very lucky to be seated there. In port we could see OCEAN MAJESTY, now with a Turkish line I believe; she was built as a ferry in 1966, but after several owners, charters and a conversion started sailing in 1994 as a cruise ship.

Ocean Majesty

Hasabi II

Near her was HASABI II, which I found out was a yacht built in 1950, now registered in George Town, with very elegant lines. There were several young Japanese passengers on board so a few of us ended up taking photos for each other on our respective cameras (all Japanese of course).

We disembarked at Mykonos down the passenger stairs and had to smile at the ‘goodbye’ poster on display.

First Class lounge


We were half an hour late because of the wind but disembarked into the dusty sunshine and trudged up the hill to a terraced restaurant. Our view was of the new port and the vessels there, and it was amazing to think this had been created by 2006 at a cost of 13.4 million Euros. I had a delicious lunch of stuffed tomatoes, fresh bread, wine and water, at a table under the shade of a big tree, and was ready to go down the dusty lane to the port again for embarking on our last ship of the holiday: PENELOPE A of Agoudimos Lines, first known as HORSA. She is the sister of AGIOS GEORGIOS, the ex-HENGIST, both of which were built for Sealink and launched in 1972. HORSA was 5,590 tons when built and is now shown as 5,190 gross tons. I think one must mention HENGIST, HORSA and VORTIGERN (R.I.P.) in the same breath, and maybe SENLAC too.

Penelope A

Penelope A ex-Horsa

Boarding Agoudimos Lines' ship

Up the stairs

Deck plan

We sailed on PENELOPE A at 3.15 p.m. into a slightly rough sea. Again we had chosen to buy first class tickets and so enjoyed the spacious Saloon. We are heading to the Greek mainland seaside resort of Rafina, which is also a popular ferry port. We are due to arrive at 8.05 p.m. and will stay there overnight before flying back to the UK tomorrow, so we had lots of time to see the sights of this old ship and enjoy the journey.


More artwork

Horsa detail

More Horsa

Up to First Class

First Class saloon

Aft bar

Aft seating

Funnel rising out of the deck

The harbour at Rafina was a welcome sight after such a breezy and slightly rough sail, although I was sad to think this was the last sailing of our Greek trip. PENELOPE A will be here overnight, with several other ferries.

Funnels in Rafina

Accommodation was found at a local sea-front hotel, and then we could set out into the local town. There were hundreds of people out in the vast square up behind the hotel, so we joined them to listen to and enjoy a free band concert. There were also hundreds of small stalls at the side of the now-pedestrian roads and I have never seen so many clothes, toys and jewellery on sale for a long time. Set behind the stalls were many restaurants and coffee shops, so we were happy to join in the evening’s festivities.

Ships seen in Piraeus: Wind Spirit, Festos Palace, Superfast XII, Elyros, Highspeed 6, Speedrunner, Blue Star Delos, Serenade of the Seas, Star something with 4 masts, Sea Cloud, Blue Star Patmos, Corinthian II, Nissos Mykonos, Flying Dolphin, Blue Star Naxos, Theofilos, Panagia Agiasou, Jet Ferry 1

In Trapezona shipyard: Sea Breeze III, La Galera

After leaving Piraeus: Speedrunner 4 (not on fire), Phivos, Blue Star 2, Adamantios Korais, Marmari Express, Artemis

In Syros: Blue Horizon, Ocean Majesty, Horizon Diana (freighter), Hasabi II

At Mykonos: Penelope A, Ekaterina P, Blue Star Ithaki,

At Rafina: Blue Star Ithaki, Penelope A, Ekaterina P, Super Ferry II (Golden Star Ferries)

Sunday 9th September 2012
I wasn’t the only one who had been in Rafina port overnight, as several ships were still there, which I could see from the hotel balcony. The seaside beaches could be seen on the right hand side of the hotel.

View from the hotel balcony

View in the other direction

Last view of Penelope A, heading towards the sun and mountains

The wind was still blowing hard, and the sea looked a little rough, but all the ships sailed and two others arrived to drop passengers and embark more.

Ships seen: Blue Star Ithaki, Superferry II, Ekaterina P, Penelope A, Evia Star, Sea Jet 2

I will be taking the local bus to Athens airport later this morning to fly home to England, having sailed on fourteen unusual and interesting ships during the last twelve days. I think it is the most beautiful way to travel to visit some of the Greek islands. The ferries are a necessary way of life in these waters, and I think they are just like little liners, each on their set voyages and providing a life-line to the islands. In the United Kingdom many of us consider ourselves an island race, a maritime nation, and of course over 90% of our imports arrive by sea. I think this is partly why so many of us feel comfortable and lucky to be able to visit Greece and enjoy the warmth, blue sky and blue seas, and have our own Greek Odyssey.

An unknown harbour on the way north from Athens, probably 20 minutes after take-off;
now known to be Elefsina, Aspropyrgos, Skaramagas with the island of Salamina in the top of the picture.

The harbour a few seconds later