Celestyal Nefeli 12th May 2017, Part 1

Friday 12th May 2017
I flew out of London Gatwick Airport on an easyJet Airbus 319/320 at 05.45 in the morning. It was daylight but with heavy cloud and I could see nothing of the English countryside as we headed east. We flew towards Amsterdam and the Low Countries and then headed south towards Greece and my destination of Athens Airport, with a flight time of 3 hours and 20 minutes. I will have to advance my watch 2 hours when I arrive.

We arrived 10 minutes earlier than expected and I had my first glimpse of the mountains and sea as we made our final approach into Athens. I was soon off the aircraft and into the terminal building, before walking outside to enjoy feeling the warmth of the Greek sunshine. It's been a long and grey winter in the south of England. My travelling companion soon arrived and we arranged to get one of the airport buses to our embarkation port of Lavrion, to sail on CELESTYAL NEFELI.

The bus dropped us off in the main square and we decided to walk to the port, which we could see through the trees. A large and dirty stray dog decided to adopt us, at a distance, and acted as an escort as we walked. We noticed he had a used cardboard coffee beaker in his mouth, which we thought might be his own version of a food begging bowl...

We passed the white bench that two other ferry friends thought had been in use on AGIOS GEORGIOS (ex-HENGIST); the ship had been in lay-up here at Lavrion some years ago. The dog kept looking back at us to check on our progress and once we all reached the port gates he left us to our own devices and collapsed slowly in the shade of a snack bar. We thought he was probably known there.

Disreputable escort dog

Taxiarchis laid up


We passed the laid-up TAXIARCHIS, and then went into the Cruise Terminal building to check in for CELESTYAL NEFELI which we could see her at a nearby quayside. We were offered a ride in the shuttle bus to the ship, but it took us only 5 minutes to walk the distance, along the side of the inevitable metal fencing. Before we got there however we could see something interesting, tied up at another quay. It was NEARCHOS, of Creta Cargo Lines, looking empty and rather forlorn. As we walked towards the stern ramp we could see an overalled man walking towards us from the deck and he said he was the Chief Engineer and invited us on board. We stood at the top of the ramp and I noticed that this little ship had once been a train ferry, as I could see 3 sets of train lines that were now covered up. The Engineer said she was built in 1968, is 4,163 gross tons, and he was obviously really proud of his little vessel and engines (IMO: 6727193). Another man soon appeared and made us feel unwelcome so we all walked back down the ramp; the Engineer explained that it was the owner. We thanked him for letting us see the car deck and telling us about his ship and the removal of much of the stern hull/superstructure, and then walked a few yards to board CELESTYAL NEFELI.

Creta Cargo Lines Nearchos

Invited to see the railway lines

Olive trees to welcome us on board

Celestyal logo on the funnel

My cabin 2007


It was a great relief to walk on board and locate my inside cabin on Deck 2. The last forty-eight hours have been rather unexpected and it was good to have a few minutes to get things in perspective again. The plan to sail on CELESTYAL NEFELI for 3 nights on 12th May from Lavrion was made recently, and plans were also made to add some ferry trips after the short cruise. Arrangements were made and all was well until 48 hours ago when one of the ferry companies notified my travelling companion of 3 days of strikes by Greek seamen on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday this week. Naturally this meant we could not sail on anything later in the week after disembarking from CELESTYAL NEFELI. Things were cancelled or abandoned but it was decided to continue with the short cruise and then enjoy a full day in Piraeus port before flying home to the UK on Monday evening. I changed the date of my flight home, removed unneeded items from my rucksack, let my family know of my changed plans, and set off for Gatwick airport on Thursday evening. My son was due to fly into Gatwick from a business trip that evening so we met there for a short while, before he headed home. Nine hours later I flew out to Athens.

Now here I was on this little cruise ship, looking forward to a good time on board but without the planned ferry trips after that. CELESTYAL NEFELI was built in 1992 for the Effjohn Group at 19,090 gross tons as CROWN JEWEL, then became CUNARD CROWN JEWEL, went to Star Cruises as SUPERSTAR GEMINI, VISION STAR, MV GEMINI, before being chartered by Celestyal Cruises (the new name for Louis Cruises). I have enjoyed several trips with Louis Cruises over the years.

Lunch was being served up on Venus Deck 6 in the Leda Casual Dining room and outside deck so we enjoyed that and had a giggle at the thought of this being named 'A Euphoric Cruise'. We sail this evening about 9 p.m., arriving tomorrow morning in Santorini for the day, then sailing on to Izmir in Turkey for Sunday. After a day there we sail back to Greece and the port of Nafplion and that could be the end of my Euphoria.

Nearchos from Nefeli

Boat Deck

Reception

Theatre

Always the glorious blue

Selene Lounge

Marmari Express

Macedon

Inside buffet lounge

Good enough to eat


Boat drill was held at 6 p.m. and we discovered there were one or two different styles of life jackets on board. The top of the life jackets fitted as expected but men wearing shorts or trousers fitted the extra, unfamiliar, strap fairly easily between their legs, with some adjustment back and front; those of us wearing a skirt or dress became aware that wearing this unfamiliar extra strap would cause what I shall call unexpected limb exposure. Hmm, I made a mental note to exchange my life jacket when I could.

We had spent time in the afternoon enjoying the sun in the aft Thalassa Bar with its delightful tiered curved decks around us, but after Lifeboat Drill it was time to change and enjoy pre-dinner drinks and music in the Deck 4 Eros Lounge Bar. Dinner is served from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. in the Aegean Restaurant, which covers the full deck width of the ship, with excellent views of the sea from every table. The observant Head Waiter ensured that all passengers were made welcome; the menu offered a good selection of dishes which were professionally served by his staff. The cruise package price includes almost all alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, plus excursions, and we found that the bar staff were also most attentive to passengers' needs, whether in the Aegean Restaurant or in the many Bars.

The evening's entertainment at 9.45 p.m. was a Mythology Show - a trip around the Greek Olympus and the Greek Gods. I enjoyed most of this, but extreme tiredness suddenly overtook me and I had to return to my cabin. It had been a long and busy day, but I was at sea again and happy to be there, as we sail 108 nautical miles overnight.

Ships seen at Lavrion, Greece
Taxiarchis
Nearchos
Marmari Express
Macedon
Celestyal Nefeli


To be continued...

COSTA CLASSICA 11th April 2013 Piraeus

Wednesday 10th April 2013
Clocks advanced 1 hour last night, so we are now on Greek time ready for our arrival in Piraeus tomorrow. I woke to a very calm sea, with the sun just coming up through distant mist. Breakfast was taken on the aft deck, in lovely air, and a single swallow flew around the stern for a couple of minutes, and then wasn't seen again. I presume we were near enough to land as we head north for it to venture out to the ship.

The day was casual, until it was time to put on the ‘posh frock’ ready for the Captain’s Gala night cocktail party, and Gala Dinner.

Thursday 11th April 2013
Today we arrive early in one of my favourite ports: Piraeus, the port for Athens in Greece. I was awake at 6 and through the porthole I could see a Blue Star Line ferry rather close and heading into the port,

One I saw but didn't photograph

Athens

so I dressed quickly and went on deck,

Another early bird

In the distance

In the distance

Also seen

and for the next hour and a half enjoyed seeing all the comings and goings into the Great Harbour, as we sailed in and berthed. Breakfast was taken on the aft deck, enjoying the ships and the sunrise over the surrounding mountains suddenly flooding the harbour with light.

Early sun

Jet Ferry 1

Lato

Blue Horizon

Theofilos

Helas Liberty

Blue Star Naxos

Blue Star Ithaki

Posidon Hellas

Costa Magica

Costa Classica

We could see the little cruise ship MINERVA further along the quay, so we set off in the warm sunshine, and our footsteps took us right beside MINERVA.

Minerva

This was an opportunity not to be missed, so I walked up the gangway. At the top someone emerged from the dark interior and so I did my nice smiley English female thing, and explained that I was a passenger on the COSTA CLASSICA, and how pleased we were to see their lovely ship. The security man immediately said it was not possible to visit, so I explained that I quite understood, but would it please be possible to have a couple of picture postcards. He led me across to Reception so the English-speaking Purser immediately took two postcards from a nearby rack and gave them to me; I thanked him, we shook hands and all was well with my little world as I went back down the gangway.

Kefalonia appeared on the other side of the harbour

Then we walked through the cruise terminal, heading for the original Epirotiki Shipping Line building. My travelling companion as a small boy used to write to them each year from Cape Town and from Canada asking for ship postcards and new brochures. These were always sent, and received with great happiness.

The Epirotiki building

Today we ventured into Reception at the offices and met a welcoming man who suggested we wait a moment, because here was Mr Andreas Potamianos himself arriving for work. Stunned silence on our part, and big smiles, and then we were introduced and invited to take the lift with him up to the penthouse that is his office suite on the top floor. We did this very happily, and entered a fantastic set of rooms, with fabulous views over the Great Harbour. He asked if we would like coffee or tea, and this was soon brought. My companion explained that as a small boy in Cape Town and then in Canada he would write each year to the Epirotiki offices asking for the latest brochures. Mr Potamianos then immediately wanted to know ‘Did we send them?’ and was happy that the answer was ‘Yes, thank you’.

We chatted, took a few photos, admired his memorabilia and the ship photos all around his rooms, including him with many recognisably famous people. He gave my friend a big shipping book, and I was given a book about Greek islands with many pictures of Epirotiki ships in it. What an honour to meet the man. It seems he is busy with some non-shipping related business, although his company does handle bookings for Pullmantur. His cousin was the late Mr Potamianos who owned FUNCHAL, whom we met on the quayside in Lisbon in September 2010 after disembarking from her (see my blog piece entitled FUNCHAL). We finally said our goodbyes and thanks and left the unforgettable eyrie above the harbour.

We found the Louis Cruises Lines offices nearby and obtained some brochures there, and then walked to see Costas at the not-to-be-missed Telstar Newsagents – Booksellers, at 57 Akti Miaouli. This proved to be a long visit, with much discussion about the Tradewinds publication and my companion’s lengthy article in the latest issue. We bought books and postcards, and I showed him my article in his bookshop copy of Ferry & Cruise Ship Annual 2013 about the Norwegian Hurtigruten vessel NORDSTJERNEN, and he was going to take that home to read.

The walk back through the Harbour meant we could go and see AGIOS GEORGIOS on behalf of one particular ferry friend,

Agios Georgios

The port side of Saint George

Diagoras

Aqua Jewel

Ionian Star

Ionian Star

Phivos

and the chance to look at COSTA MAGICA and the Pilot harbour further along the quay.

Evening ferries

I had lunch on board, ready for sailing at 3 p.m. but I found that so ignominious: we went out stern first from the Great Harbour - I couldn't believe it. When we arrived this morning we could have gone in and turned in the wide turning circle, with the Pilot on board avoiding the other traffic, just as MSC FANTASIA did. Ah well, one of life's little mysteries.

Goodbye to Piraeus

What a wonderful day in Piraeus.

Ships seen: Blue Star Patmos, Neptune Thelisis, Gallia from Monrovia, Hellenic's Flying No. 18, GA Ferries Jet Ferry 1, ANEK's Lato, Blue Horizon, Theofilos from Nel Lines, MSC Fantasia, Hellas Liberty, Blue Star Naxos, Agios Georgios in all her glory, Blue Star Ithaki, Posidon Hellas, Konstantis, Costa Magica, and the ships far away in lay up that we saw entering Piraeus Great Harbour, and many little local craft coming and going from the nearby islands

To be continued....

Greece 2012 Part 12, the final one

Saturday 8th September 2012
Here we are on Blue Star PATMOS arriving in Piraeus again, well before the crack of dawn.

Disembarking from Blue Star PATMOS

Goodbye to us, and welcome to the next passengers

It was 6.20 a.m. as everybody disembarked in the darkness, but we walked along the quayside, passing FESTOS PALACE and the luggage lorry off-loading beside it, back to the shipping line offices. I looked after the bags whilst my companion went to buy the tickets for this morning’s sailing on Blue Star NAXOS to Mykonos. The usual port dogs were wandering around, and I noticed a couple of them climb into a stationary local bus for a while, before getting off and doing other things.

Luggage arriving for Minoan Lines' Festos Palace

Embarking on Blue Star Naxos

The sun gradually came up over the surrounding mountains and we hurried on board with hundreds of other passengers. We are to depart at 7.35 a.m. from Piraeus to Mykonos new ferry port, calling at Syros and Tinos en route, and arriving at 12.35 p.m. so there will be good time for lunch before our next sailing this afternoon.

Serenade of the Seas stern

Festos Palace

Masts in the morning mist

Jet ferry 1

Leaving the great harbour of Piraeus we could see many ships in their berths, or just arriving, including masted sailing ships. Because it was Saturday the NAXOS was extremely crowded and we were glad to have tickets for the forward First Class Saloon to enjoy the more spacious and less crowded surroundings. The sea was somewhat rough this morning, with quite a breeze, but the sky and sea was blue and it was becoming very hot again. We watched other ships departing on their various routes to the islands, including the SPEEDRUNNER 4.

Very cheap fuel

It's heading our way!

The black smoke being emitted from her was phenomenal and, although we knew she must be using really cheap fuel, it did look as if she might be on fire at first sight. That smoke even drifted over to us for a short while. Cappuccino and a cheese pie removed the taste of the smoke from my nose and memory.

On deck

Deck Plan Blue Star Naxos

Adamantios Korais

Artemis in the spray and swell

Our passage to Syros was quite rough compared with our usual calm waters, but it was possible to rest comfortably in our Saloon, and we felt very lucky to be seated there. In port we could see OCEAN MAJESTY, now with a Turkish line I believe; she was built as a ferry in 1966, but after several owners, charters and a conversion started sailing in 1994 as a cruise ship.

Ocean Majesty

Hasabi II

Near her was HASABI II, which I found out was a yacht built in 1950, now registered in George Town, with very elegant lines. There were several young Japanese passengers on board so a few of us ended up taking photos for each other on our respective cameras (all Japanese of course).

We disembarked at Mykonos down the passenger stairs and had to smile at the ‘goodbye’ poster on display.

First Class lounge

Disembarking

We were half an hour late because of the wind but disembarked into the dusty sunshine and trudged up the hill to a terraced restaurant. Our view was of the new port and the vessels there, and it was amazing to think this had been created by 2006 at a cost of 13.4 million Euros. I had a delicious lunch of stuffed tomatoes, fresh bread, wine and water, at a table under the shade of a big tree, and was ready to go down the dusty lane to the port again for embarking on our last ship of the holiday: PENELOPE A of Agoudimos Lines, first known as HORSA. She is the sister of AGIOS GEORGIOS, the ex-HENGIST, both of which were built for Sealink and launched in 1972. HORSA was 5,590 tons when built and is now shown as 5,190 gross tons. I think one must mention HENGIST, HORSA and VORTIGERN (R.I.P.) in the same breath, and maybe SENLAC too.

Penelope A

Penelope A ex-Horsa

Boarding Agoudimos Lines' ship

Up the stairs

Deck plan

We sailed on PENELOPE A at 3.15 p.m. into a slightly rough sea. Again we had chosen to buy first class tickets and so enjoyed the spacious Saloon. We are heading to the Greek mainland seaside resort of Rafina, which is also a popular ferry port. We are due to arrive at 8.05 p.m. and will stay there overnight before flying back to the UK tomorrow, so we had lots of time to see the sights of this old ship and enjoy the journey.

Artwork

More artwork

Horsa detail

More Horsa

Up to First Class

First Class saloon

Aft bar

Aft seating

Funnel rising out of the deck

The harbour at Rafina was a welcome sight after such a breezy and slightly rough sail, although I was sad to think this was the last sailing of our Greek trip. PENELOPE A will be here overnight, with several other ferries.

Funnels in Rafina

Accommodation was found at a local sea-front hotel, and then we could set out into the local town. There were hundreds of people out in the vast square up behind the hotel, so we joined them to listen to and enjoy a free band concert. There were also hundreds of small stalls at the side of the now-pedestrian roads and I have never seen so many clothes, toys and jewellery on sale for a long time. Set behind the stalls were many restaurants and coffee shops, so we were happy to join in the evening’s festivities.

Ships seen in Piraeus: Wind Spirit, Festos Palace, Superfast XII, Elyros, Highspeed 6, Speedrunner, Blue Star Delos, Serenade of the Seas, Star something with 4 masts, Sea Cloud, Blue Star Patmos, Corinthian II, Nissos Mykonos, Flying Dolphin, Blue Star Naxos, Theofilos, Panagia Agiasou, Jet Ferry 1

In Trapezona shipyard: Sea Breeze III, La Galera

After leaving Piraeus: Speedrunner 4 (not on fire), Phivos, Blue Star 2, Adamantios Korais, Marmari Express, Artemis

In Syros: Blue Horizon, Ocean Majesty, Horizon Diana (freighter), Hasabi II

At Mykonos: Penelope A, Ekaterina P, Blue Star Ithaki,

At Rafina: Blue Star Ithaki, Penelope A, Ekaterina P, Super Ferry II (Golden Star Ferries)

Sunday 9th September 2012
I wasn’t the only one who had been in Rafina port overnight, as several ships were still there, which I could see from the hotel balcony. The seaside beaches could be seen on the right hand side of the hotel.

View from the hotel balcony

View in the other direction

Last view of Penelope A, heading towards the sun and mountains

The wind was still blowing hard, and the sea looked a little rough, but all the ships sailed and two others arrived to drop passengers and embark more.

Ships seen: Blue Star Ithaki, Superferry II, Ekaterina P, Penelope A, Evia Star, Sea Jet 2



I will be taking the local bus to Athens airport later this morning to fly home to England, having sailed on fourteen unusual and interesting ships during the last twelve days. I think it is the most beautiful way to travel to visit some of the Greek islands. The ferries are a necessary way of life in these waters, and I think they are just like little liners, each on their set voyages and providing a life-line to the islands. In the United Kingdom many of us consider ourselves an island race, a maritime nation, and of course over 90% of our imports arrive by sea. I think this is partly why so many of us feel comfortable and lucky to be able to visit Greece and enjoy the warmth, blue sky and blue seas, and have our own Greek Odyssey.

An unknown harbour on the way north from Athens, probably 20 minutes after take-off;
now known to be Elefsina, Aspropyrgos, Skaramagas with the island of Salamina in the top of the picture.

The harbour a few seconds later