Haynes World - ships, ferries, a laugh on the ocean wave, and other interesting things...

Showing posts with label SAGA LEJON. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SAGA LEJON. Show all posts

27 October 2009

SWEDISH RHAPSODY AUGUST 2009 Part 2

SWEDISH RHAPSODY AUGUST 2009
Part 2

Monday 10th August 2009

The day started early with a stroll down to the quayside (past the concrete piece of artwork that I chose to call "the seal of approval"), to join the informal crowd waiting to board SAGA LEJON.


Seal of approval


The usual security compound was absent, and in no time the gangway was in place for us to board.



We paid the Purser for our booked tickets and were shown to a restaurant dining table which would be ours for the day; we had a huge picture window beside it and ample room under the table for backpacks; the table was laid with linen and glassware, ready for the first ‘welcome aboard’ snack, and all around were many original wood and decorative features such as the mosaic tiled pillars, the children's play area, and the builder's plate.



The sunlight poured through the windows, the ropes were cast off, and at 9.00 a.m. we sailed north from Vastervik heading for Nykoping through the Swedish archipelago.


The English-speaking Purser Joanna invited us to visit the engine room (two 6-cylinder MaK diesels), wearing efficient ear muffs, and to chat with the Chief Engineer on the aft mooring deck, and there we met Joanna’s husband who was also a member of staff.


The route was meandering, between the forested islands and sparkling water, with the red and green buoys showing our next turn in the channels, gliding through the calm water at 14 knots on this graceful little ship. Our welcome on board snack and lunch were included in the price of the ticket, but Bar and Restaurant service were available all day. Looking round the ship I noticed two big square glass door handles, on a locked room, just the same as the jewel-coloured ones I’d seen on other ships designed by Knud E. Hansen, the signed photograph of the King and Queen of Sweden taken on their June 1976 wedding day,and a most unusual sign about dogs.




Lunch of salmon and vegetables was served, and then it was time to prepare for a call at an island.

By superb seamanship, Captain Per Reback brought us in to the island of Gardsholm, with the bow pointing straight at the island. The gangway was hoisted off the foredeck and fixed securely, ropes held the ship in place, and almost everyone on the ship walked over the ship’s Bridge wing and over the gangway to set foot on this island; we could visit the tiny church, have a quick swim or paddle or simply take pictures from a few yards away. It was the most incredible and almost magical experience.



An hour after arriving, we were sailing away again and invited by the Captain to visit him on the Bridge. His wife and young children were also on board, so it was a happy atmosphere and fascinating to hear about his career at sea. He had been first with Stena Line, then Viking Line, then Star Cruises, before joining Royal Stockholm Cruise Line.

With the end of the voyage to Nykoping in sight, our speed had to be reduced to maximum 7 knots due to the depth of the water and the chance of bottoming out.


Buoy, that's close

The red and green marker buoys showed our way along the final miles into the little harbour, where the ship was to stay overnight. We were surprised to see a red double-decker London bus on the quayside.


We turned and tied up, disembarked with thanks and goodbyes, and headed into the town to find tonight’s accommodation. Forty Towers (!) was located, the rooms admired (black valances on the beds, Andy Warhol prints of Marilyn Monroe on the black shelves on the one black painted wall) and then it was out to enjoy the architecture and riverside walks (the Stadhus town hall designed by Alvar Aalto), back to the harbour and past the castle. What a wonderful day.

Ships seen: Gaastborg, Selga, Forza, Sonord, Linne

SWEDISH RHAPSODY AUGUST 2009 PART 1


SWEDISH RHAPSODY August 2009 Part 1


My father used to love a piece of popular music called ‘Swedish Rhapsody’, and he frequently played his record of the tune. Just a few weeks ago I heard the complete ‘Midsommarvaka (Swedish Rhapsody No. 1) Opus 19 by Hugo Alfven, and his Symphony No. 2 in D Major, Opus 11, which depicts travelling through the Swedish archipelago, and suddenly my next travel adventure had a name!

Saturday 8th August
The rucksack was packed and I flew off to Gothenburg on Sweden’s west coast for the first time. Ryanair seemed to have its normal policy of ‘nessun dorma’ (none shall sleep) on the flight, with constant announcements. However, my travelling companion was pleased to look down and see the town of Aalborg in Denmark where his grandmother lives. Flying in to Gothenburg gave us wonderful views of sparkling sunlit water, myriad forested islands and busy-looking vessels enjoying the Saturday morning summer sunshine.


Gothenburg flowers


.
first floor flowers


The plan was to travel leisurely by train across from the west to the east coast, then take to the water and travel north through the archipelago on some fascinating ships.

The city and restaurants were full of people and most seemed to have tickets for the evening’s 'Madonna' concert, but lunch was enjoyed in the sunshine in an Italian restaurant on Avenyn before we took the intercity train to the lake-side town of Jőnkoping.

The centre of Jonkoping is attractive and a walk through the parks brought us to the quayside and ‘restaurant row’.

SALTKRAKAN top deck



SALTKRAKAN in Restaurant Row



Ship deprivation for the last two days meant the pre-dinner drink had to be on the top deck of an ancient laid up ferry M/S SALTKRAKAN; dinner was in the quayside restaurant below, with the fish choice being prepared while we watched the arrival of a 1915 built lake steamer (converted to a motor ship) vessel NYA SKARGARDEN with wood decks and superstructure, topped with a tall slim funnel.


NYA SKARGARDEN




The Captain later showed us round the elegant little ship, the passengers having disembarked from their lake cruise. Everywhere was noise, music, gardens, flags, crowds and unusually warm weather – delightful.


Ships seen: Lasse Dahlquist, Nya Skargarden, and another lake motorship


Sunday 9th August

Next morning the town of Jonkoping appeared deserted on our walk around admiring the buildings, artwork, parks and ornate rococo fountains.


Jonkoping rococo fountain



Jonkoping artwork



But the sun continued to shine as we caught a train going east to Nassjo. There was time to tour that town before taking another train, this time to Mariannelund; then we had to take a bus further east through forests, calling at lake sides,camp sites, summer houses etc. until we finally arrived at Vastervik.


Overnight accommodation in Vastervik was in what turned out to be small and comfortable wooden garden sheds, set around a small garden with fruit trees and flowers.


En suite wasn't quite as expected, as it involved a short walk along the garden path back to the tiny 'house' for the bathroom/shower and kitchen facilities. The sheds did have electricity, candles and a fire extinguisher, and nice linen. Hmmm, something must have been lost in translation.


The highlight of the evening was the arrival of SAGA LEJON, our ship for the next day, when we were to sail north through the Swedish archipelago.





SAGA LEJON arrives



Crowds and dogs gathered as the ship came through the channel towards Västervik and we all admired this handsome little diesel-engined vessel of 991 tons, built in 1969 as M/S MALMŐ. Designed by the famous Knud E Hansen company’s Tage Wandborg, she started on the Copenhagen/Malmo run; her routes and owners changed over the years, until in March 2003 she was sold to Royal Stockholm Cruise Line, their logo now proudly displayed on the funnel, and at this point she was re-named SAGA LEJON.




We were also amused to see a member of the ship's crew climb out so she could meet her friends more quickly.


Dinner in a restaurant within sight of the ship completed the day.


Ships seen: M/S Saltkraken, Simson Bar & Kitchen (old ferry), Saga Lejon