TUI DISCOVERY 2, Part 7, Madeira and some memories

Thursday 28th September 2017

We arrived in Madeira on schedule at 8 a.m. and berthed alongside the quay. Now I shall have a nostalgic few minutes remembering some of my past life. 

Everything looked so different to my first visit here in Madeira on a Union-Castle liner. At the time I was working in the Purser's Bureau on the CAPETOWN CASTLE, which in 1966 was filling in on the Cape run as the two new ships were not ready to enter service. She was slower than the regular ships so we left Southampton and headed for Cape Town via Madeira, Ascension and St. Helena, knowing we would head back again to the UK from Cape Town without going up-coast. The seas were rough as we headed for Madeira and the other Purserette and I were sea-sick and suffering, especially as there were problems with the water supplies on board as well as the ventilation. We enjoyed the short port call in Funchal, and then we set off again. 

The water and ventilation problems were sorted out after a day or so and soon we were all better and enjoying the passenger work in the Bureau. The ship was built in 1938 at 27,000 gross tons so we felt every shudder and creak of the wood in the ship. I remember being advised only to worry if the noise of the creaking stopped. That kept things in proportion.

The port calls at Ascension and St. Helena ( I had a little time ashore) were fascinating and I am still so pleased that I wrote home regularly to my parents (remember those blue aerogrammes available in the UK?) and all those details could be published in my book (Union-Castle Line Purserette) many years later. 

Our voyage home from Cape Town was uneventful and we arrived back in Southampton on 14th February 1966. The passengers disembarked, the ship was prepared for our next voyage and we sailed away again the very next day. This time our route was to be a call at Flushing (now known as Vlissengen) in the Netherlands to pick up a big group of Dutch-speaking passengers, before sailing to Madeira again, then Walvis Bay in South West Africa (now known as Namibia), before arriving in Cape Town.

It was after we left Flushing that the seas became truly rough and the ship had a tremendous roll, with the occasional enormous wave hitting us. I woke very early from a fitful sleep on the morning of 20th February, dressed and staggered round to the other Purserette's cabin and we all sat on one bed feeling rather scared. Then the 4th Officer arrived and told us they would attempt to hove to for an hour or so and head into the wind. That manoeuvre should help although we might not be able to get into Madeira and land the passengers there. 

The sight of what greeted us in the Bureau that morning was astonishing, as so much seemed to be on the floor. The only things on the Bureau counters were the heavy typewriters which we used, which had very long carriages. The ship finally hove to about 5 p.m. and could think about heading towards Madeira. We reached the shelter of the island about 7.30 p.m. but it was still too rough (Force 6) to land anyone so we simply sailed up and down one side of the island all night, rolling and pitching all the time. 

The next morning things seem to have calmed down a lot, and we finally got alongside at 8.00 a.m. and could land the passengers. We managed to sheer off two bollards on the quayside, which were fairly solid metal ones, but this excitement seemed quite ordinary compared with the sea on the previous days. The day before we got to Madeira we discovered that the sea and wind was squalling at Force 12 several times during the day. I think many of us had been truly terrified as we took our sea-sickness tablets, but skilled seamanship got us safely into port. I see that in my note home to my parents I said "All in all we feel lucky to be in such a large ship - a smaller one wouldn't have survived." 

Today that sentence makes me smile, but at the time several of us were very frightened and were so grateful to get through what we did. I shall end my memories there, as I plan to go ashore here in Madeira and enjoy the here and now.

To be continued...

COSTA CLASSICA 11th April 2013 Piraeus

Wednesday 10th April 2013
Clocks advanced 1 hour last night, so we are now on Greek time ready for our arrival in Piraeus tomorrow. I woke to a very calm sea, with the sun just coming up through distant mist. Breakfast was taken on the aft deck, in lovely air, and a single swallow flew around the stern for a couple of minutes, and then wasn't seen again. I presume we were near enough to land as we head north for it to venture out to the ship.

The day was casual, until it was time to put on the ‘posh frock’ ready for the Captain’s Gala night cocktail party, and Gala Dinner.

Thursday 11th April 2013
Today we arrive early in one of my favourite ports: Piraeus, the port for Athens in Greece. I was awake at 6 and through the porthole I could see a Blue Star Line ferry rather close and heading into the port,

One I saw but didn't photograph

Athens

so I dressed quickly and went on deck,

Another early bird

In the distance

In the distance

Also seen

and for the next hour and a half enjoyed seeing all the comings and goings into the Great Harbour, as we sailed in and berthed. Breakfast was taken on the aft deck, enjoying the ships and the sunrise over the surrounding mountains suddenly flooding the harbour with light.

Early sun

Jet Ferry 1

Lato

Blue Horizon

Theofilos

Helas Liberty

Blue Star Naxos

Blue Star Ithaki

Posidon Hellas

Costa Magica

Costa Classica

We could see the little cruise ship MINERVA further along the quay, so we set off in the warm sunshine, and our footsteps took us right beside MINERVA.

Minerva

This was an opportunity not to be missed, so I walked up the gangway. At the top someone emerged from the dark interior and so I did my nice smiley English female thing, and explained that I was a passenger on the COSTA CLASSICA, and how pleased we were to see their lovely ship. The security man immediately said it was not possible to visit, so I explained that I quite understood, but would it please be possible to have a couple of picture postcards. He led me across to Reception so the English-speaking Purser immediately took two postcards from a nearby rack and gave them to me; I thanked him, we shook hands and all was well with my little world as I went back down the gangway.

Kefalonia appeared on the other side of the harbour

Then we walked through the cruise terminal, heading for the original Epirotiki Shipping Line building. My travelling companion as a small boy used to write to them each year from Cape Town and from Canada asking for ship postcards and new brochures. These were always sent, and received with great happiness.

The Epirotiki building

Today we ventured into Reception at the offices and met a welcoming man who suggested we wait a moment, because here was Mr Andreas Potamianos himself arriving for work. Stunned silence on our part, and big smiles, and then we were introduced and invited to take the lift with him up to the penthouse that is his office suite on the top floor. We did this very happily, and entered a fantastic set of rooms, with fabulous views over the Great Harbour. He asked if we would like coffee or tea, and this was soon brought. My companion explained that as a small boy in Cape Town and then in Canada he would write each year to the Epirotiki offices asking for the latest brochures. Mr Potamianos then immediately wanted to know ‘Did we send them?’ and was happy that the answer was ‘Yes, thank you’.

We chatted, took a few photos, admired his memorabilia and the ship photos all around his rooms, including him with many recognisably famous people. He gave my friend a big shipping book, and I was given a book about Greek islands with many pictures of Epirotiki ships in it. What an honour to meet the man. It seems he is busy with some non-shipping related business, although his company does handle bookings for Pullmantur. His cousin was the late Mr Potamianos who owned FUNCHAL, whom we met on the quayside in Lisbon in September 2010 after disembarking from her (see my blog piece entitled FUNCHAL). We finally said our goodbyes and thanks and left the unforgettable eyrie above the harbour.

We found the Louis Cruises Lines offices nearby and obtained some brochures there, and then walked to see Costas at the not-to-be-missed Telstar Newsagents – Booksellers, at 57 Akti Miaouli. This proved to be a long visit, with much discussion about the Tradewinds publication and my companion’s lengthy article in the latest issue. We bought books and postcards, and I showed him my article in his bookshop copy of Ferry & Cruise Ship Annual 2013 about the Norwegian Hurtigruten vessel NORDSTJERNEN, and he was going to take that home to read.

The walk back through the Harbour meant we could go and see AGIOS GEORGIOS on behalf of one particular ferry friend,

Agios Georgios

The port side of Saint George

Diagoras

Aqua Jewel

Ionian Star

Ionian Star

Phivos

and the chance to look at COSTA MAGICA and the Pilot harbour further along the quay.

Evening ferries

I had lunch on board, ready for sailing at 3 p.m. but I found that so ignominious: we went out stern first from the Great Harbour - I couldn't believe it. When we arrived this morning we could have gone in and turned in the wide turning circle, with the Pilot on board avoiding the other traffic, just as MSC FANTASIA did. Ah well, one of life's little mysteries.

Goodbye to Piraeus

What a wonderful day in Piraeus.

Ships seen: Blue Star Patmos, Neptune Thelisis, Gallia from Monrovia, Hellenic's Flying No. 18, GA Ferries Jet Ferry 1, ANEK's Lato, Blue Horizon, Theofilos from Nel Lines, MSC Fantasia, Hellas Liberty, Blue Star Naxos, Agios Georgios in all her glory, Blue Star Ithaki, Posidon Hellas, Konstantis, Costa Magica, and the ships far away in lay up that we saw entering Piraeus Great Harbour, and many little local craft coming and going from the nearby islands

To be continued....

Funchal Cruise 5th September 2010 Part 3 (the final one)

Funchal Cruise Part 3 (the final one)

Wednesday 8th September 2010
The ship arrived alongside the ship-like terminal building in Ceuta before sunrise, so I watched dawn breaking just before the excursion coaches left the rain-soaked quayside for their visit to Tetouan in Morocco.




Ceuta is a very small Spanish city, an enclave located in north Africa, sharing a border with Morocco. I find it interesting that the Spanish Government object to the British ‘ownership’ of Gibraltar, but seem to have no problem with the Spanish ‘ownership’ of Ceuta, but life offers many points to ponder…





We had time for a leisurely breakfast before I set out to walk around the town and see the castle. The early morning rain had stopped, the sky was clearing and the heat rising so it was all very pleasant. I went into several ferry company ticket offices but there were few brochures available, so I walked into the walled town and took photos of the lovely FUNCHAL. I noticed well-kept gardens, mostly filled with stray cats, which made a change from the usual stray dogs!


On my way back I heard ambulance noises, and saw what I called ‘an ambulance chaser’ i.e. someone in another vehicle following the ambulance, with a very large camera on his shoulder, who was videoing everything as he went. As I approached the quayside I realised the ambulance was approaching the ship, followed by several police cars and more ambulances. That was worrying, as I knew the four of us were all doing independent things this morning.

As I reached the entrance gate to the quay and ship I could hardly believe my eyes: everywhere there were dozens of people sitting in white plastic chairs, with bandages, blue towels, neck braces, blood, plaster casts and other signs of injuries. I couldn’t believe my eyes and had to hurry on board to see what had happened, and check that my dear friends were all right. The dreadful news was that one of the excursion coaches that had been travelling in convoy had skidded off the road near Tetouan in Morocco and fallen down into a ravine or gully. Nine people had been killed and many injured. Some of the injured had been brought back to the ship on the other coach, while many others were taken to four different hospitals to be treated.

Some injured were treated on the quayside, some were able to get back on the ship, but it was all so dreadful. There was nothing we could do to help, but I found that on board one or two ladies came up to me and patted my arm and asked whether I was all right, and my friends, and I did the same to them. I think everyone on board was in shock, injured or otherwise, and it was hard to settle to anything. Everyone talked to everyone else, for reassurance as much as anything.

FUNCHAL remained in port and we were told that the ship would stay in Ceuta until injured passengers could be released from their hospitals and that is what happened. All entertainment on board was of course cancelled, but the bars did a very busy trade. Day turned to dusk as we were finally told that the ship would be leaving Ceuta and heading fast back to Lisbon, so it was a very sombre scene on board as we sailed away. Dinner was not the expected cheerful last night event; I spoke to the Restaurant Manager and asked him to give our sympathies to the families and injured passengers, and he was most kind and emotional as we spoke and hugged. On deck after dinner we stood looking up at the stars and ship’s wake, and wondering about life. I noticed a small older lady just gazing down the stairs to the well deck, and decided to go and see if she was all right as she was alone. She wasn’t all right, she had lost her friends and life would never be the same again, so it was time for a comforting hug for her and tears for both of us. She patted my face and walked away – poor lady.

Ships seen: Ciudad de Malaga, Jaume III, Euroferrys Pacifica, Celebrity something far off at sea, Breant of Stamp Line, Ceuta Jet (ex Nordic Jet), Ils de Los Volcanos of Peregar

Thursday 9th August 2010
The ship was sailing fast – about 22 knots we think, rather than the usual 18 – to get us back to Lisbon. I like to think that we were listening to the metronomic rhythm of the engines. We had left Ceuta about 7 hours late so we were given an expected time of arrival back at the Alcantara Cruise Terminal of 5.30 p.m. The sea was quite choppy and many passengers were seasick or queasy, just to add to the misery on board, but I think most of us were just relieved to be heading ‘home’. My three friends knew they would miss their daytime flights but my flight was early evening so I hoped I might be able to catch that.








Mealtimes were welcome and very noisy and helped a lot, as we could all be in a crowd and talk.

We arrived back in Lisbon at 5.30 p.m. to find a queue of ambulances lined up on the quayside to take the injured passengers to hospital or home, plus a large crowd waiting behind the ISPS fencing with cameras, and even a helicopter flying over us for some minutes. Whilst we were on deck watching FUNCHAL being tied up, we were excited to see the new Kristina Cruises vessel heading towards us, out of the Cruise Terminal along the River Tagus: it was the KRISTINA KATARINA.



She was soon followed by the cruise ship DISCOVERY, which was another good surprise, as I had never seen her before.



Eventually goodbyes were said, including to the Cruise Director Telmo Miranda, who had been absolutely magnificent in his care and attention to everyone and everything, during the cruise and particularly in the last two days.

I was allowed to leave the ship in due course, with Soren, to try and get my flight home from Lisbon airport that evening and I was successful in that.



Ships seen: Kristina Katarina, Discovery

The cruise on FUNCHAL had been memorable - she is such a little treasure of a ship - and we hope the future conversion work to make her fully SOLAS-compliant will ensure that she is with us for many years to come. Judging by what we have heard of Classic International Cruises and Mr George Potamianos and his love for his ships, we should have no fears for FUNCHAL!