MINERVA 14th May 2016 Part 3 St. Malo

Monday 16th May 2016
This morning we are at sea, which is very pleasant; we are due to arrive at St. Malo at noon. After an early breakfast I went along to the Darwin Lounge for the Whitsunday Service at 9 a.m., including Holy Communion. I know it is Monday, but this morning was considered an ideal time whilst we are at sea. The Rev'd Canon Ian Ainsworth-Smith held an inter-denominational service, with a collection for the Mission to Seafarers, which is such a worthy cause. I had tea on deck, took some photos and looked at the swimming pool; the water temperature was shown as 13⁰C - still too cold for me.

Then at 10.30 a.m. it was time to go and hear the 3 Lecturers tell us about their talks on board. As well as Rev'd Canon Ian Ainsworth-Smith, they are Lady Christine Skelmersdale and Professor Gervase Phinn. During this 40 minute talk I noticed Brittany Ferries' BRETAGNE pass us.

We sailed into the St. Malo bay and tied up to two buoys, as rocks abound here, and we knew it would be a tender port.

St. Malo from the deck

Tug Grand-Be

Lots of walking


I had an early lunch in the delightful Veranda Restaurant, ready to go ashore at 12.15 on the tender to the quayside. We were soon on a waiting coach, introduced to our guide Anne, and off on a coastal drive to Mont St. Michel. I had been looking forward to this particular excursion and as we drove beside wide beaches, along the beautiful green and lush coastline, the sun shone down and we all started to anticipate our first view of the Mont.

Leaving the beaches of St. Malo

We drove over the reclaimed land known as the polders, along narrow lanes, and finally arrived at the Coach Park. This is all part of a huge 2009-2015 development (thank you UNESCO), which includes car, coach and motor home parking areas, a Tourist Information Centre with toilet facilities and a kennel (!), a new bus shuttle along The Passeur, a new walkway bridge beside the dam over the River Couesnon, built because of bad silting, a walkway 760 metres long from the shuttle to Mont St. Michel itself. We could see some of the tidal effects in the vast bay, with white 'rims' visible in many places; we heard that tides can be as high as 14 feet or more.

Crossing the last bridge, on our left we could see the dam

Welcome

Leaflet details

More details

View from the shuttle bus, approaching the walkway

View from the edge of the bridge

Mont St Michel

We are walking towards the entrance near the flag


We are here to visit the monument of Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel, off the coast of Normandy in France, and I was really happy to be here. The island has a very small population of 50 in the actual village with storerooms, shops and housing, but ahead of us was a climb of many steps up from the village to visit the buildings on the rocks, culminating in the Abbey. The monastery was started in the 8th century on the rock of the island, and fortifications and great halls added, and then the abbey on the top was built in 11th/12th century. Outside the walls are the houses for the fishermen.

Inside the village

Another stop for a breather, after already climbing about a hundred steps up from the village

Built around the rocks

Detail

Up again


The statue of Saint Michael which is usually seen on the top of the building is currently away for renovation, removed by helicopter, so there is scaffolding around the steeple. The Mont is so large that the scaffolding is hardly noticeable.

In the cloisters around the garden

View through a glass window


Our guide Anne was extremely knowledgeable and gave us an interesting history of the buildings as we climbed, with lots of breathing stops, and gradually the views were revealed and showed just how strategically this Abbey was located. My one particular abiding memory was of our small group of perhaps 12 of us standing in the vast Refectory which had been used every day by the monks. Anne told us that the Benedictine monks then had a vow of silence, but during meals one of the monks would sit on steps hewn into the rock just above the tables, and recite Bible passages.

Having looked round the Refectory and seen we were the only group in there, Anne then started to chant on one note several verses from the Bible and did so for several minutes, just as the monk would have done. It was the most unforgettable thing to happen and I felt very fortunate to have experienced it. I think we were all amazed and thrilled at this young lady's talent for bringing such history alive in these surroundings.

Climbing back down the various steps, paths and walkways gave us several views back to the mainland, and soon our whole group met again for the return journey back to the coach and a fast inland journey back to the ship. What a spectacular visit this had been.

Wonderful view back to the mainland

Goodbye

Leaving St. Malo on the tender

Minerva from the tender


We were back on board at 7.30 p.m. a little later than scheduled, but I was soon washed and changed ready for dinner in the Swan Restaurant. Again I enjoyed good food and company. The evening entertainment in the Darwin Lounge at 9.30 p.m. was Opera del Mare, a talented group of singers/musicians who sang "Songs of the Sea" for us. One of the songs was "Where Corals Lie" from Edward Elgar, others from Gilbert & Sullivan (I had been to see HMS Pinafore only the previous week), Mozart, Benjamin Britten etc. and I really enjoyed the evening.

Songs of the Sea from Opera del Mare


It had been a long and memorable day, and tomorrow we have a day at sea, as we sail towards Nantes.

Our wake


Ships seen: Bretagne of Brittany Ferries leaving St. Malo as we sailed in, Minerva from the tender, Grand-Bé tug


To be continued...

Bretagne to St. Malo 23rd/26th August 2010

Bretagne to St. Malo, France
23rd/26th August 2010

Hooray, I was going to sail to St. Malo in France and spend a couple of days exploring. The English coastal train delivered us to Portsmouth & Southsea station, from where we walked to the International Ferry Terminal



and checked in for the 8.30 p.m. overnight sailing to St. Malo on the good ship BRETAGNE of Brittany Ferries.

She was built in 1989, and is 24,534 gross tons, with a service speed of 21 knots, to carry 2,056 passengers and 580 cars.

As foot passengers we were not allowed to walk from the current terminal building (the new one is due for completion in summer 2011) to the ship, so large coaches took us on the 2 minute journey to the quayside, where we were allowed to walk the last few yards to board BRETAGNE. It was not possible to take a full view photograph of the ship – what a shame – but as PRIDE OF BILBAO was berthed alongside us, I could photograph her instead. She has such a punishing schedule, sailing to and from Bilbao in northern Spain, and the rust under the Bridge roof overhang and Bridge wings was very noticeable. Her life as a P&O ferry ends in a few weeks, and it will be interesting to see what the future holds for her.

The cabins were spacious and comfortable, so it was easy to leave bags and get on deck to watch us sail from Portsmouth Harbour.



Dinner was taken in Les Abers (the á la carte Restaurant), which was a great treat for the palate and senses, although we could have chosen to eat in La Baule (the self-service restaurant) or La Gerbe de Locronan (the Café). The ship sails on British Time but I altered my wristwatch to French time, ready for arrival in France.

Ships seen: Pride of Bilbao, Endurance, Arrow, and lots of naval warships.

Tuesday 24th August 2010
Sunshine beamed through my cabin window and the open decks called, to watch us arriving in the picturesque little town of St. Malo.





A Condor ferry left the port whilst our ramp was being lowered for the cars to disembark, and we could look out at the several Basins which make up the port.

Footies were soon allowed off to take the ubiquitous coach to the terminal building, and then we were free to walk to our hotel to settle in, before a very welcome breakfast.

We spent the day in the old City (Cite d’Alet). Much of St. Malo was badly damaged in the war but has been rebuilt or withstood events, but we planned to walk along the complete ramparts of this tiny area, a distance of about a mile. Before we could start climbing up, there was a necessary diversion to our plans: a beautiful Carousel was located just at the entrance, beside the water, and its lure was so great that I was in Cinderella’s coach in no time at all, with my companion on one of the prancing grey horses. My coach lurched back and forth gently, the horses rose and fell with the music, and we were absolutely enchanted with our surroundings.

Metaphorical midnight having struck, I left Cinderella’s coach and took to the ramparts. It was fascinating to see the views - of the water outside the walls and the solid buildings, shops and bars down below in the old City.

Cars can enter the city through just two Gates, so it was safe to descend from the ramparts as the whim took us, to walk on the pavements or streets below on one side, or on the beaches on the other, where the tide was rapidly going out.







Paths down the rocks led to damp sand (yes, date and location writing) and then on a causeway leading to a nearby island of Grand Bé, where we climbed up and around the summit to admire the tomb of Chateaubriand, and the views back to the ramparts. There was another little island further out again, accessible by another causeway, but as the tide was on the turn it seemed safer to observe the notices and return to the beaches and head up the ramparts in search of a late lunch down in the city.

The Cathedral had beautiful stained glass windows;



the little restaurant had good food for a light lunch; the shops were unusual and tempting; the perfume sample was Divine (that’s what the label said); the café stop for a cup of tea had a short row of French cinema seats as seating for some of its clients (I belong to the Cinema Theatre Association!) and it was an altogether fascinating time amongst the ancient walls and ramparts.







Two weary women wended their way back to the hotel, ready to head out in a different direction for a late supper at a local Brasserie. Plat du Jour was ordered, and I remember the Roquefort cheese running to meet me on the serving tray. That was a wonderful first day in St. Malo.

Wednesday 25th August 2010
It poured with rain until mid-morning so it seemed sensible to wait before walking several miles in another direction to visit the Tour Solidor. It was closed for lunch (French priorities…) so we found the decidedly French little café Globe Trotter in a back street nearby and enjoyed another memorable meal at leisure – a scallops dish for my companion and a salmon creation for me. With wine and dessert, it was excellent value; we must have said and done all the right things as we were rewarded with the exchange of kisses on the cheeks, that are normally reserved for good friends!



We visited the Tour Solidor with its sea-going memorabilia, including a stuffed albatross with its wings out-flung, looming at us out of the gloom on one floor of this high tower. The other items and photographs from local ship owners and captains were fascinating. From the roof top we could look towards the River Rance and the barrage that had been built beside part of it.

The rain had eased by then, so our route home took us to the Rose Gardens to enjoy the tranquillity and sight of the profusion of perfumed roses set amongst paths, grass and arbours.



One nearby lane brought us into a little local High Street, where I found a shop selling embroidery and sewing items. The outside hand-painted murals were on orange-coloured board, colour-matched moments later by the shop owner wearing orange coloured clothes to match her orange-coloured hair. She found what I hoped to buy, having seen it in the window, and pleasantries were exchanged, so we were both happy.

We needed a cup of tea by this time (hours and miles since lunch) so went into the darkness of a local narrow café entrance, to be greeted by a smiling young proprietor keen to practise his English, while I was keen to practise my French – nothing unusual here! We sat down and noticed we were beside a large picture of a nude female, whilst further along the dark room was women’s clothing hanging up. Tea was ordered and equilibrium restored when the owner explained he was an artist and all the mostly abstract and colourful pictures around the café were his work and for sale; he had also designed beautiful appliqué flowers which were used by his business partner on women’s black disco-wear, and these were hanging at the rear of the shop if we wanted to see them.

There was a lot to talk about on our way home!

Supper that evening at a local Brasserie was small but enjoyable, with mussels and trout on the menu.

Thursday 26th August 2010
We return home today, with an early check in at the ferry ready for the 10.30 a.m. sailing, again on Brittany Ferries BRETAGNE. I’d booked an inside cabin for the day crossing, so we could leave luggage and use the facilities if we chose, if the ship was full.







I remembered seeing Kennels marked on the ship’s plan, so went to Reception to ask if it would be possible to visit them (we’d tried to locate them by ourselves). We were asked to return at 12 noon, and when we did so we met the family of two dogs in the Kennels, and they were more than happy to let us accompany them. We all followed a member of staff down several decks into non-public spaces and met two beautiful white Samoyeds. We were all taken out on the Deck 5 stern, amongst the capstans and behind the car ramp, and enjoyed walking and playing with the pets for a while. It was quite a contrast to return to the noise and crowds back in Reception, but we were grateful to the dog owners.



A light lunch in La Baule set us up for the afternoon’s entertainment. Brittany Ferries had arranged for a Summer Entertainment on board the day crossings back from St.Malo to Portsmouth for 6 weeks, ending 2nd September, and it was to be a pantomime of "Dick Whittington – a Ship’s Adventure", for adults and children alike. The Gwenn Ha Du show lounge was nearly full as the music started at 2.45 p.m. and we all sat round wondering just what to expect from a Summer Pantomime. It started at 3 p.m. on schedule, and we were all amazed as King Rat leapt onto the small stage with lights flashing and rolling of drums. This inevitably resulted in one very small child screaming in terror and being rushed out by his mother. I have to say that the rest of us laughed, sympathetically of course.



The show that followed was slick, cleverly done by just 9 actors/actresses, with a good script, music and dancing. Small children were invited on stage for a little competition, which was funny and done very nicely, but of course there had to be several departures from the script during the whole time for various reasons, and the ad-libs were so funny. I found the whole thing hilarious and haven’t laughed so much for a long time – it was a wonderful afternoon of entertainment, and what a good idea during a day at sea.

The cast were available for photographs afterwards, but I simply wanted to congratulate them. Souvenir posters signed by the cast were available too, as a thank you for a donation into a local Macmillan Nurses collection box beside the stage, which I thought was a lovely touch.

Back in the real world it was time to pack up and get ready for arrival in Portsmouth and then the trains home.



St. Malo had been just as interesting and rewarding as I hoped it would be, in mostly warm sunny weather, and getting there and back by sea on Brittany Ferries BRETAGNE was the ideal way of doing it, in my opinion.