20 January 2016
MORE FERRYING IN '15 Part 3
Wednesday 16th September 2015
I set my alarm for 5.20 a.m. here on board FESTOS PALACE. All passengers usually get a call from the tannoy in good time for arrival, but it was late this morning so we were on deck in darkness ready for our scheduled 6 a.m. arrival back in Piraeus. There were lots of ferries and cruise ships around us in the Piraeus Roads, waiting for us to arrive and enter the harbour
We were alongside at 6.35 and off quickly to get on the port bus waiting alongside. That took us immediately further round inside the port gates and we got off quickly ready for a very fast walk to board CHAMPION JET 2 at Gate 9. This is a High Speed biggie with a white hull, and we were on board her at 6.55, breathless! My friend had run to buy the tickets too, whilst I stood on the deck ramps telling the staff that there were two of us boarding! All was well as the staff cheerfully told us to slow down, we were on, the ramps came up, the engines roared and we were off and out of Piraeus Great Harbour all before sun up.
Welcome on board Champion Jet 2
As we left the Great Harbour this was my first ship photograph - Phivos
High Speed 6
Nissos Mykonos
Adonia
Island Princess
Minerva
And here is Festos Palace, that we arrived on not many minutes ago
El Venizelos
Sea Jets Tera beside El Venizelos; the end of the jetty, damaged by an MSC cruise ship, has not been repaired.
Aida Stella
Celebrity Equinox
It was breezy going out of the harbour. My friend reminded me that CHAMPION JET 2 is ex-British - she was the former Channel Islands mainstay CONDOR EXPRESS for almost two decades before being replaced by the somewhat troubled CONDOR LIBERATION for 2015 so this was her first season in Greece. He guessed that a lot of people have enjoyed the 'God phone' on her over the years during winter English Channel gales!
My seat is number A38, on the lower deck. The upper deck on here is Distinguished Class, where seats cost more money, but we could see that it was empty. There were many non-Greeks on board, mostly tourists like us, which we discovered by going on deck just before sun-up.
Sunrise over Superfast XII
Smoking was forbidden on board, understandably on this sort of vessel with its limited outside deck space, but of course there was a male standing by one of the signs outside and enjoying a smoke. I discovered we were sailing at 38 knots, and whilst it was very slightly rough between the islands, it was absolutely nothing compared with the Halunder Jet, which I shall not even put in capital letters, and whose memory still frightens three of us.
We are due at the beautiful island of Mykonos at 9.35 a.m. where we will disembark for a few hours until getting our next ferry at 1.00 p.m to the island of Andros.
Having said that it was only slightly rough between the islands, that all changed 45 minutes before we were due at Mykonos when the sea became really rough and our CHAMPION JET 2 vessel lurched all over the place. Everyone remained in their seats, people moaned or screamed, women and children rushed for the toilets, staff tried to keep people calm, and it was very uncomfortable for those 45 minutes. Hmm, was it the vessel or the weather I wondered...
Waiting to disembark from Champion Jet 2 at Mykonos
From Pireaus, on a much used and enjoyed map
It was such a relief to arrive and tie up at Mykonos. The port is always vulnerable to the wind and sea here as I well remember from the LOUIS AURA trip, but that ship and Captain dealt with it all very easily. Ah well, hundreds of us disembarked and many more embarked.
Disembarking at Mykonos
Champion Jet 2
Another view of her
I remembered that there was a local small water taxi service just on the other side of the quay so we headed there and were soon ferried along to the Old Town port stop on the other side of the bay.
Mykonos Express sea bus
Mykonos Old Port, and the New Port where we arrived
Although it was still extremely windy, we headed into the old back streets where it was much more sheltered and discovered the back entrance to a cafe. Inside all was calm and pleasant and a coffee break turned into an early snack lunch. This was partly because of the lovely staff and food, but also because of the pictures on the walls, which included one of an old Chandris ship (ROMANTICA) in the harbour many years ago.
Chandris Line ship Romantica, in a picture on the cafe wall
We finally had to head out into the wind again and take the other water taxi back to the new port, ready to board our next ship of the day. We had bought tickets in a local travel agent (Delia Travel) in Mykonos old town so we were ready to board the FAST FERRIES ANDROS for our journey to, guess where, Andros! It all seemed so appropriate of course.
Fast Ferries Andros
Embarking Fast Ferries Andros
We checked in and walked up the car deck ramp, with its 'elephant' feet for tying down big vehicles, and up to the Distinguished Class Lounge to settle in for the next couple of hours.
Seating
More seating
Out on deck before sailing we could see Superferry II of Golden Star Ferries
Looking along the deck
Balancing act
As Ekaterini P arrived
We left at 1 p.m. and despite the wind in the bay were soon on our way to Tinos, before arriving at the nearby island of Andros. I haven't been here before but the little port town of Gavrio was in a very sheltered bay on the north-west of the island, but facing south. The ship hooted as we approached the bay and port, and the sound echoed round the hillsides and mountains.
Waiting to disembark at Gavrio, Andros
Gavrio on the island map
We disembarked at 3.35 p.m. and were soon walking out of the little town and up the road on the headland to where we knew the Andros Holiday Hotel was located.
Goodbye ship
Fast Ferries Andros down in the bay
We checked in with the smiling Receptionist and she made us feel very welcome. Rooms were all air-conditioned, with terraces; there was a vast pool down nearer the sea, with terraced gardens, tennis courts, paths stretched down to the sea, and everywhere I could see blue colours. The sky was blue, the sea blue, the swimming pool blue, the terrace woodwork, and railings beside the paths.
Blue
More blue
I thought of trying the swimming pool and then walking to the sea through the trees below the pool. The barman sitting near the Pool and its Bar smiled a greeting and reminded me that there was no lifeguard or attendant. The pool water was deep and looked inviting but cold so I decided not to swim. There was no-one else near the pool anyway. The tiny beach at the bottom of the last path was so calm and peaceful and I sat there for a while, and enjoyed the shade of a tree and just looking out to sea. The water sparkled and all seemed well with the world.
My bed called me loudly however so I made my way up one of the paths and had a lovely rest for an hour.
The Hotel had a restaurant but we decided to walk back to the town in the cool of the evening and find somewhere recommended by Trip Adviser: the Thiriotrofeio (Menagerie) Restaurant. It was in a backstreet of the little town, and the proprietor and his wife made us very welcome, in English. I immediately said I recognised Ella Fitzgerald singing in the background, and this seemed to earn us Brownie points straight away. The meal that followed was wonderful, cooked while we waited, and all accompanied by little home-made specialities suggested by the owner. The starter was a cheese croquette accompanied by Rose Preserve, which set the standard; our main meal was tender veal, with vegetables in rice with a sauce. Dessert was chocolate mousettes and ice-cream; we had wine, water and bread as necessary, and then were given a little glass of cherry liqueur, made by the proprietor's wife - again delicious.
Menagerie/Thiriotrofeio
After our meal we booked our tickets for the next day’s sailing – we went to the old agents for Agoudimos Lines, whose offices looked as if no-one had told them Agoudimos had gone bust a couple of years ago, with that company’s name still lit up in neon and giant posters of the Ionian King, Penelope A, Kapetan Alexandros etc. on the walls. They had all the timetables for the other operators marked up outside and sold tickets for them of course, but it was all slightly bizarre!
The way home in the night-time heat, back up the winding paths to Andros Holiday Hotel under the starry skies, helped the wonderful food to settle and my air-conditioned room made for a blissful end to a relaxing but eventful day. Tomorrow we take a mid-morning ferry trip from here on Andros back to Mykonos, and then will get a late afternoon ferry back to Piraeus for a late night arrival.
Ships seen in Piraeus in the morning:
Champion Jet 2, Festos Palace (on board), El Venizelos, Superfast XII (off the port), Celebrity Equinox, Minerva, Island Princess, Tera Jet, Nissos Mykonos Blue Horizon, Blue Star Patmos, Blue Star Delos, Blue Galaxy, Blue Star Paros, Panagia Tinou, Aidastella, Highspeed 6, Macedonia, Panagia Agiasou, Phivos, Ionis, Agios Nektonos Aeginas, Alchios, Flying Dolphin XVII, Adonia cruise ship, Hellas Liberty, Salamis Filoxinia at sea
Ships seen in Mykonos:
Creta Cargo Lines Talos, Mykonos Express cross-harbour ferry, Margharita ch., Alexandros, Ekaterini P, Fast Ferries Andros, Superferry II of Golden Star Ferries, a Costa cruise ship at a distance, Blue Star Paros, Superjet, Romantica of Chandris in a picture on the cafe wall
Ships seen in Andros:
Fast Ferries Andros, Theologos P, Superferry II, Ekaterini P seen out at sea, sailing from Rafina to Mykonos but not calling at Andros
To be continued...
17 January 2016
MORE FERRYING IN '15 Part 2
Tuesday 15th September 2015
Oh, the pleasure of a longer lie-in on board BLUE HORIZON this morning; the ship arrived in Heraklion port in Crete at 6.00 a.m. but passengers can stay on board until 8.30 a.m. and this is what we did.
Blue Horizon at Heraklion
We disembarked easily at 8.40 a.m. from a deserted ship and were soon walking into the Bus Station nearby to leave our bags safely locked up for the day. A short walk along the waterside offered nowhere for a breakfast, so we continued along
past some ruins which were being renovated
until we arrived at the familiar Hotel Kornos, where we knew that the proprietor would welcome anyone, hotel residents or non-residents, who wanted breakfast. He was still there and welcomed us for a meal.
We had decided to visit the famous Knossos Palace ruins, which are a few miles inland from Heraklion; by this time the temperature was 30⁰C and climbing so hats, scarves and sunglasses were the order of the day, according to signs advertising a visit. The local bus number 2 soon left and we headed a short way inland to the hills.
Plan of Knossos Palace
There is always an apparently sleeping dog...
Knossos Palace is the largest Bronze Age archaeological site on Crete and is considered Europe's oldest city. The site was discovered in 1878 by Minos Kalokairinos and various coins were found in the earth of this fertile hillside valley. The excavations in Knossos began in AD 1900 by the English archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans (1851–1941) and his team, and they continued for 35 years. The palace was excavated and partially restored under the direction of Arthur Evans in the earliest years of the 20th century; there is a bust of him near the entrance to the ruins. Our lovely lady guide told us that the palace of Knossos was undoubtedly the ceremonial and political centre of the Minoan civilisation and culture. It appears as a maze of workrooms, living spaces, and storerooms close to a central square. An approximate graphic view of some aspects of Cretan life in the Bronze Age is provided by restorations of the palace's indoor and outdoor murals, as it is also by the decorative motifs of the pottery and the insignia on the seals and ceilings.
Sir Arthur Evans
Our guide told us that the palace was abandoned at some unknown time at the end of the Late Bronze Age, c. 1380–1100 BC. Sir Arthur discovered two ancient tablet scripts which he called Linear A and Linear B and one of these was later translated. The palace of Knossos was undoubtedly the ceremonial and political centre of the Minoan civilisation and culture.
Ruins
Hillside down to the stream
Decorative
North pillar hall
We walked around the ruins in the hot sun and stood under trees when we could; the whole area uncovered is about 3.9 square miles, and I think we saw a lot of it. Our guide ended the tour back at the entrance and our small group thanked her very much. The inevitable souvenir shop offered expensive copies of the finds from the excavations, but we visited a little cave-like local shop outside and I treated myself to a beautiful silver and lavender-coloured bracelet instead. When worn, it will be my reminder of an unforgettable visit to Knossos Palace ruins; the first settlement there dates to about 7,000 BC and the first palace dates to 1,900 BC.
Back on the local bus, sitting near the cheerful lady guide, we returned to Heraklion and waved to our guide as she went home. We had time to walk around the town and enjoy local sights such as the Town Hall and then Minoan Lines Head Office, which was rather splendid inside.
As a matter of personal interest, today we have visited the site after which one of the Minoan ships was named - KNOSSOS PALACE - and this evening of course we are sailing on another of their vessels - FESTOS PALACE. Festos, or Phaistos in Greek, is also a Bronze Age site on the island of Crete, first located in 1853, which proved to be a Palace and then belonged to the Mycenaean Greeks.
We reclaimed our bags from the Bus station, walked along to the Minoan Lines terminal for our 6.30 p.m. check in and boarded the huge FESTOS PALACE. She was built in 2001 at 24,352 gross tons. There was time to take photographs before darkness fell, shower and change, and then enjoy the golden hour with a gin and tonic in the King Radamanthys Bar.
Festos Palace
Snack Bar area
King Radamanthys Lounge
One of the long accommodation corridors
Pool and Pool Bar
Builders plate
Deck at dusk
The funnel
Inside the Asterion Pool Bar
Another view of the funnel
Blue Horizon at sunset
High Speed 4 in darkness
Although a big ship, the design flows nicely through and around the comfortable public rooms and art work on board.
Some of the artwork on board
More artwork I liked
Restaurant dinner was interesting for the inevitable huge portions and the horrible-tasting wine recommended by the steward.
Festos Palace Reception (in palatial surroundings, of course)
My bed soon called, and my Cretan day ended with happy memories. Tomorrow we arrive back in Piraeus, at an early hour of 6 a.m. with plans for an extremely short stay on land!
Ships seen: Blue Horizon, Festos Palace, Champion Jet 1, High Speed 4
To be continued...
15 January 2016
MORE FERRYING IN '15 Part 1
My original invitation to go ferrying with friends in '15 was actually in two parts: June and also September. We enjoyed a good time in June (see Ferrying in '15 blog articles and photographs), and now it was time to set off on the September itinerary.
Monday 14th September 2015
I had a whirlwind weekend as it happens, because I flew home from Hamburg and MEIN SCHIFF 4 on the Saturday, spent Sunday with my family, and then on Monday got up incredibly early to catch the 5.35 a.m. easyJet flight from London Gatwick airport to Athens. We were airborne just before 6.00 a.m. in dreadful weather conditions which led to us flying south-east and out over Amsterdam, instead of over the Sussex coast and English Channel.
Once above the clouds at 36,000 feet and flying south it was blue sky and sunny weather, and a friendly flight attendant called Miles answered my query about our route by asking the Captain. Coo, that's the way to get information! Miles said he was sorry I couldn't get to the flight deck of course, but he was due for a coffee break soon and would be happy to take my camera with him into the cockpit and take some photos looking out if the Captain gave permission. That sounded fun, and was what happened.
I took my own photos from the cabin windows as we flew over mountains down to Greece, and the 3 hours 10 minutes until we landed soon passed. At the airport I changed happily into hot weather clothing, caught the bus for Piraeus port and an hour and a half later I was being greeted by my ferry friends.
A lovely chatty lunch followed, with a fascinating (for me) question and answer session between the two of them about each other's favourite ships during the previous week. With a list of five each, starting at 5th place, they each had to guess the name and placing of their favourites. Since they had been on eleven ships during the week, it was great fun to listen to. My notes tell me that they each chose the same ship as their favourite, in 1st place: the NISSOS RODOS.
One friend had to return to the UK and his family so there were fond farewells in Piraeus before I boarded my first ship of the trip. The TEOPTIOS II took us out to Salamina island at 4 p.m., and the sea and sunny waters were delightful as we sailed out of Piraeus Harbour. There were many ships to be seen; for the first time in 7 years the JET FERRY 1 of GA Ferries was NOT in port, having been towed away late last week.
First view in the harbour
Georgios Broufas II
On board Georgios Broufas II, although I stayed on deck
Ships seen at lunchtime in Piraeus:
Prevelis, Blue Star Naxos, V. Kornaros, Panagia Tinou (the ex-Agios Georgios, built in 1972 as the celebrated Hengist), Festos Palace, Ariadne, Nissos Mykonos, El Venizelos, Superfast XII, Europa 2, Celebrity Constellation, Hellas Liberty, Phivos, Agios Nektarios Aeginas, Ionis, Andreas Kalvos, Blue Horizon, Blue Galaxy, Flyingcat 3, Blue Star Patmos, Costa neoClassica, Flying Dolphin Athina, Macedonia, Panagia Agiasou
Andreas Kalvos
Lovely 3
Costa neo-Classica
Celebrity Celebration
Flying Dolphin Athina
Ariadne
Superfast XII and El Venizelos
Europa 2
On the way to Salamina
Forty-five minutes later we arrived in Salamina's little port and disembarked to head into a cafe for a drink and to watch the world go by. The usual dog was not on the quayside, but presumably after he had had his afternoon rest he suddenly appeared from a side street and strolled among the quayside pavement litter bins hoping for something interesting to eat.
We wanted to take a ferry back to Piraeus but there wasn't one available so we chose to go on something with no name to nearby Perama and head back to the port from there. It was an interesting small vessel, with a lady accordionist playing for perhaps six of us passengers, and holding out a hand for a Euro when she finished. We admired the way she did the ropes on the little ship before opening a black box containing her instrument and playing for us, and then quickly putting it away as we approached the Perama quayside and she had to do the ropes again.
Ships seen getting from Salamina to Perama at Drapetsona and at Keratsina:
Aqua Maria, Theofilos, European Express, Pelagitis, Apollon Hellas, Ama Maru, Samos Spirit, Aqua Jewel, Rasa Sayang (the wreck of the Bergensfjord, see Ferrying in '15 June blog), Ionian Sky, Vastervik, Aelos Kenteris, Elli T, Menhir, the ex-Portoferraio, Lato, Golden Ferry, Ierapetera L, the new Norwegian ferry just towed into Salamina with MC on the hull, Flying Dolphin 23, 10, 29, Venus and 17 all out of the water, Alkyon, Kalli P the ex-Panagia Thalassini
Ionian Sky and Vastervik
Lato in the middle
Vastervik
Once at Perama we had to take a taxi back to Piraeus harbour and the BLUE HORIZON. She was built in 1987 and is now sailing for Blue Star Ferries, at 27,230 gross tons. We are to travel overnight on this comfortable vessel, and are due to arrive tomorrow morning at a very civilised hour in Heraklion on the island of Crete. There was time to look at other ships now in the harbour, before sailing at 9 p.m. and then having a very welcome dinner in the Restaurant.
Blue Horizon
We walked through the Bar and Cafeteria to get up on the forward deck
Panagia Tinou, ex-Agios Georgios, built in 1972 at 5,122 gross tons as Hengist
Prevelis
Blue Horizon top deck, as night fell
Down on the quayside, beside Blue Galaxy
Bar and Lounge
Restaurant
This is the first big ship of the trip, which will include leisurely routes back to Piraeus from Heraklion, to Mykonos, to Andros, to Mykonos again, Piraeus again, Patras, and then to Venice, on some very interesting ships.
Ships seen in Piraeus in the evening:
Minerva, Blue Star Paros, Champion Jet 2, Blue Galaxy, Blue Horizon
Blue Horizon Life Ring
To be continued...
Labels:
Blue Horizon,
Mein Schiff 4,
Piraeus
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