Haynes World - ships, ferries, a laugh on the ocean wave, and other interesting things...

12 August 2018

Ferrying in July 2018 Part 4 St. Damian


Monday 16th July - afternoon
We arrived in Bari just over an hour later and I had to alter my wristwatch to show Italian time, one hour behind Greek time. We took the train from the airport to the city's railway station and discovered that some of the longer-distance trains were delayed for all the usual Italian reasons. There was time for a meal in a favourite small restaurant near the station before heading back for a train down south to Brindisi, leaving at 6.29 p.m. This is where we are to embark on our next sailing, on board ST. DAMIAN. She is another vessel with an interesting history, and we are keen to catch up with her in her current guise.

After arriving in Brindisi we took a taxi to get to the terminal, but saw no sign of our ship. That began a rather tedious evening of waiting, watching, strolling around; Marine Traffic showed her as approaching but that was all. The outside temperature was down from the 38C of Piraeus to the tolerable 34C here in Brindisi, but we were all very pleased to see ST. DAMIAN arrive and berth. Of course she was behind the usual security fencing and well beyond easy sighting but at least she was there.

It was now dark and then suddenly someone had been told that we should start to queue and wait at the only security office to be seen in the fencing. We and lots of other passengers walked across the big car park and began our wait. It was all fairly orderly but vast numbers of people gradually joined the queue and it stretched as far as the eye could see. Many of us resorted to sitting on our baggage on the ground, and wonder about the workings and mindset of the local immigration officials here at the port of Brindisi. Passengers and traffic from the ship had left long ago; we knew the ship had to be prepared for the next passengers, but there was just no sign of anyone to keep us informed.

After over an hour of queuing a port official suddenly came out of the security office and began to check the passports of the first people in the queue. They were then told they could join the ship, way over in the distance. He was alone for some time and finally it was our turn to have our passports checked and be waved across to the ship. He was joined by another uniformed official so the queue was dealt with a little faster.

I see that my first photo of the ship as we walked across to her was taken at 11.15 p.m. and we had probably been in the first thirty passengers in the queue; I felt so sorry for those people still waiting far back in the lines.


St. Damian in Brindisi


We all had to show our passports again at the gangway, and again at the top of the gangway and I think again inside the ship at Reception before we could get keys to the cabin.


Near Reception


A real key


What a relief to get on board, leave bags and then be able to look around this little ship. I noted that my first impressions were that she is old but small (6,728 gross tons) and lovely.

One of my friends told me that:


"The St DAMIAN is one of nine sister ships, six of them for Viking Line and they were the ships which really transformed Viking Line into a force in the early 1970s. The other three were built for Mexican service where they enjoyed quite long lives as well. They really are quite smart little ferries and were memorialised in the 1980s by the book, 'The Papenburg Sisters' which, although it is somewhat biased towards the two which served UK-based operators for long periods, is an excellent overview of a famous class of ferry.

The ROSLAGEN is the ex-VIKING 3 of 1972 and was sold by Viking Line as early as 1976 when she went for more service on the northern Vasa-Umea route. By 1988 after a brief return to Viking Line and a trip to the English Channel she was sold to Eckero Line, became the ROSLAGEN and enjoyed almost 20 years which included various refits which largely made the ship look like she does today on board.

Agoudimos Lines took her on in late 2007 and, as the IONIAN SPIRIT she eventually inherited the Brindisi-Vlore route from the KAPETAN ALEXANDROS A (RIP). When Agoudimos went bust she languished in Brindisi for years. ( I remember that we last saw her in Brindisi in darkness on 22nd July 2016, as IONIAN SPIRIT.) So desperate are ferry companies for tonnage nowadays that even the most unlikely ships are being reactivated and put back into service so after four years of layup and at 44 years of age her current owners European Ferries bought her at auction and she was eventually resuscitated as the St DAMIAN, inheriting a Corsica Ferries yellow hull livery from the company's first ship the ex-CORSICA SERENA SECONDA (now MOBY NIKI).

The main changes on board since her Eckero days are the installation of reclining seats in parts of the open-plan central section which was previously general seating/spill over seating for the cafeteria, the slightly sad conversion of the forward smorgasbord restaurant into an additional bar and the conversion of the lower passenger deck with some cabins being put back in where the Duty Free shop had been extended. The rest of the shop is now home to large reclining seat lounges."


This is the ship we have finally embarked on and she was due to sail at 11.30 p.m. from Brindisi overnight to Vlore in Albania. That departure time has obviously been and gone, so we shall have to wait and see what happens next. What happens next included walking around the ship and taking a few photographs and noticing that in our cabin we could hear a conversation going on in the next cabin because there was a gap in the top of the cabin partition/wall separating us.


Forward Bar


Another view of the Forward Bar


Reclining seats


View down to the bow


Panorama Bar


Goodness, a lovely glass door handle


Along our alleyway


There seemed to be several parties of students on board, some sharing a cabin nearby, and there was much activity for some time. It didn't worry us. I think the air-conditioning or ventilation system on board didn't work in our cabin and we got round that little problem by propping the door open with a big thick blanket all night. I think we all got to sleep about 2.15 a.m., mostly from exhaustion. My friends were particularly happy to be on board this interesting little ship.

Ships seen in Brindisi: St. Damian, Red Star 1


To be continued....

03 August 2018

Ferrying in July 2018 Part 3


Monday 16th July 2018 (the morning)
We woke early today, ready for EL VENIZELOS to arrive back in Piraeus at 7 a.m. There was time to remember that far more information about the ship's history, and many photographs of the ship in 2008, can be found at: http://www.hhvferry.com/elven.html I'm told that the El Ven has had a few more adventures since 2008, including her charter to GoInSardinia when ANEK cancelled the charter and sneaked her back to Piraeus. This was when we sailed on her to Chania four days after having had a cancelled booking on her in Sardinia.

The hot sun shone down on us as the ship berthed and we could see much activity in the busy harbour.

Hellenic Highspeed


Nissos Mykonos


I was standing near to the El Venizelos


Phivos leaving on one of her early trips to Aegena


Adamantios Korais, and look at what's coming from her funnels


Highspeed 4


As soon as we disembarked we hurried round to another part of the harbour. We have time at the moment for a quick trip across to Aegena (Egina) providing we can leave quickly.


Flying Dolphin Athina


It was decided to take the hydrofoil, for its speed, and so we had time to buy a cheese pie, coffee and orange juice to go, as we watched FLYING DOLPHIN ATHINA coming alongside. I know this craft was built in 1977 in Georgia, USSR, and can go at 28.8 knots once out of the harbour, but I and many others do find it really horrible to queue nearby because of the smell and sight of the engines, fuel, and exhausts. It's nearly as bad inside the hydrofoil, I think, but my coffee helped clear the throat. The saving grace was that all the arriving passengers soon got off and then we got on quickly, the doors were shut and we were away, soon racing fast across the calm water to the island of Aegena.


On board


My friends and others went to stand outside the stern doors, with permission. My attention must have been on my cheese pie or coffee, but I was told that we passed very close indeed to CELESTYAL CRYSTAL (ex-SILJA OPERA) which was just entering port. The MYKONOS PALACE had just returned, rather late, from her maiden round trip on Minoan Lines' new Piraeus-Chania route in competition with the EL VENIZELOS and was being prepared for some open day/press event with balloons etc.

Less than half an hour later we arrived at Aegina and quickly disembarked. At the end of the quay we could see our next ship: the lovely red-hulled PHIVOS of Nova Ferries. She sails frequently between Piraeus and Aegina, with an approximate journey time of an hour.


Phivos at Aegena


PHIVOS is a lovely little ship, one of four Spanish sisters who have been scattered to the four winds, one (her) in Greece, one in Cyprus, one in Benin and one sadly scrapped. She was built as PUNTA EUROPA in 1980 at 3,437 gross tons but since 2004 this fine looking little ship has been named PHIVOS and we always enjoy travelling on her. She seems to load vehicles and passengers quickly at both ports and as soon as we bought our tickets at the ticket booth at the end of her quay we made our way along to embark for our return journey to Piraeus. She seems to keep to her schedule.


One of her red funnels


Greek flag


Deck plan


I liked the blue curtains and blue lampshades in the lounge


As soon as we disembarked from her we could get on the free port bus to go round the harbour to where we had parked the hire car.


Festos Palace


Kriti II


Ionis


Mykonos Palace dressed overall


With bags in the boot it was time to head to the airport: El Venizelos by name!


Anemos, ex Moby Baby, seen from a road


A slight detour near the harbour gave us a view of ANEMOS, the ex-MOBY BABY, as we joined all the traffic also heading out on the motorway towards the airport. We had to buy fuel on the way but we were soon parked and returned the hire car; we had checked in en route and simply had to head for the Volotea airline bag drop. They saw the rucksacks and suggested we take them round to the Oversize luggage desk. We did that, they were happy, and we could then head for the boarding gate. By now we were in air-conditioned public spaces and this was wonderful - this morning in Piraeus it had been 38 C.

Eventually we were able to board the inevitable small bus to take us to the aircraft. Our plans are to fly from Athens to Bari in Italy, then get a train down to Brindisi, ready to embark on the good ship ST. DAMIAN this evening. We embarked on the Boeing 717-200 of Volotea Airline, and then had to sit and wait for clearance to leave.

Volotea Airline Boeing 717-200, from the passenger bus


We left about an hour late, not all of it waiting on the plane, and finally flew off to Bari.


Ships seen: El Venizelos, Celestyal Crystal, Horizon, Blue Star Paros, Blue Star Naxos, Blue Star Delos, Blue Star 2, Nissos Samos, Ionis, Highspeed 4, Adamantios Korais, Phivos, Nissos Mykonos, Flying Dolphin Athina, Apollon Hellas, Achaoes, Flying Dolphin XVIII, Flying Cat 1, Mykonos Palace dressed overall, with balloons, Kriti II, Anemos (ex Moby Baby), Aqua Solution, Zakinthos 1, Hellenic Highspeed


To be continued...


30 July 2018

Ferrying in July 2018 Part 2


Sunday 15th July 2018
At the Skopios Sea Side Hotel we enjoyed a good breakfast at 7.30 and were packed and checked out by 8.15, ready to drive to the Great Harbour of Piraeus. Last night the harbour seemed fairly empty for a Saturday night, but now it was filling up nicely with many ferries and we could take photographs. We parked near one quayside and soon boarded ANEK's big ship EL VENIZELOS, ready for departure at 10.00 a.m. We have a day cabin to use and enjoy, during our long sail south to Chania, Crete, where we are due in at 7 p.m.


Blue Horizon


Festos Palace


El Venizelos


Her funnel


For some of the background to the ship, maritime author Anthony Cooke says that in 1988, Fred. Olsen began planning a new 26,000-ton ‘mega-ferry’ to be given the hopeful name of BONANZA. The origins of this vessel were somewhat unusual. She was one of four over-night ferries which had been ordered from Polish builders by the Stena Line of Gothenburg as long ago as 1979. The shipyard workers of Gdansk and Gdynia were, of course, at the forefront of the brave Polish struggle for independence from Soviet domination in the 1980s but in the process they frequently ‘downed tools’ and disrupted production. By 1986, only two of the four ships had been delivered and Stena’s patience finally ran out. They cancelled the orders for the remaining pair.

The third vessel had been launched in 1984 without name or ceremony (although apparently the original intention had been to call her STENA BALTICA) and she lay, engined but otherwise unfinished, until 1988. Olsens saw an opportunity and bought her through a London finance company. They announced plans to send her to the Bremer Vulkan yard at Vegesack for completion as by far the largest ferry yet to run on their Kristiansand-Hirtshals route. However, in the event, she remained laid-up in Poland until the following January, when it became known that Olsens had sold her to the Cretan line ANEK. It was rumoured that they had made a pleasant profit on the transaction. Her new owners had her towed to Perama, near Piraeus, where she was completed. She entered their service as KYDON II in 1992, later being renamed EL. VENEZELOS.

My friends had told me about this chequered history and it certainly is out of the ordinary. She is 36,261 gross tons, registered in Greece, with her home port in Chania, in Crete.

Two of us have been on this ship before, but for my other friend it was to be what we described as a 'mini-cruise'. We were up on deck watching all the surrounding arriving and departing vessels in Piraeus, and I noticed that here on board the swimming pool was empty of water and netted. Oh dear, I'm getting used to that sight - what a shame. As we sailed away I remembered my out-of-date chart at home of Piraeus and the surrounding areas. Our car journey yesterday was so interesting because I could trace our route to Perama, on the ferry across to Salamis Island, and then our drive around part of the island hillside roads to look down or across to the ships.


Piraeus Harbour


Perama to Salamis Island


We set off on our long journey south to Crete, from here in Piraeus Great Harbour, and I was pleased to see that the broken harbour entrance light and jetty has been repaired. An MSC cruise ship damaged it a few years ago (goodness knows how), so I do hope they have paid for that building work.


Here we go


Mykonos Palace


Hellas Liberty

Nissos Chios


New harbour light and jetty


After we left the harbour I was able to walk around the ship and enjoy what I could see today. We spent time in the forward lounge, then walked aft, enjoying the flow of the design of this big ro-ro passenger ship.


Part of the Restaurant


Part of the Self-Service Restaurant


The double-height Disco and seating area


A ticket cover


We are at sea


Calm seas


List of decks


Forward Bar and Lounge


Routes


Real cabin keys


I loved the styling of the stairs


Life ring, earlier in the day


The sea was calm, the sun shone, we had the day ahead of us to chat, eat, sleep or do nothing to our hearts' content, and that's what we did.

By late afternoon we had to prepare for arrival in Crete and in fact we arrived earlier than expected at 6 p.m.


We had just disembarked at Chania


Lovely light in the golden hour


We disembarked in beautiful late afternoon sunshine, took a few more photographs, and then walked into the small town of Chania. A nearby cafe was offering cool delights and we could also watch part of the World Cup Football Match of France against Croatia: no wonder there was little traffic on the roads nearby.

A little later we could return along the quayside and check in for our return journey on EL VENIZELOS back overnight to Piraeus. We were able to board soon after 8 p.m. ready for departure at 10 p.m.

It had been a wonderful first day at sea on a very interesting ship.

Ships seen:
El Venizelos (ANEK) Line, Blue Horizon, Festos Palace, Apollon Hellas, Hellas Liberty, Nissos Chios,


To be continued...